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Joined 24 days ago
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Cake day: February 14th, 2025

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  • The amplifi line is the plug and play line closest to the google/eero/etc. experience. It is specifically the one I was referring to which has less than enthusiastic feedback.

    I neglected to mention Mikrotik. They’re a Latvian company that is also in the space. I think they’d be farther to the professional/complex end of the spectrum. Omada is in the middle, and Ubiquiti leans toward the easier to use side. They’re all going to need more work than google wifi, unfortunately.

    The “other” site has a wealth of information; evanmccann.net is a good source for demystifying their product line as well.



  • The best thing to do is to run a wired backhaul, if it’s remotely possible. MoCa or power line adapters are possible options but do your research and assess your own situation. Wifi is more complex that it can seem on the surface, and wireless backhaul adds its own nuance.

    With higher end products you may find that you don’t need a mesh network - just one AP may solve the problem. All my neighbours have f’ing extenders which take up a ton of airspace and the houses are 30sqm footprint.

    Ubiquiti makes the UniFi line which is prosumer. You’ll need several components; unless you’ve got more than 1gbps service, the UDM is a good starting point. They also make the amplifi line; I don’t think there’s a lot of positive feedback on those products.

    Tplink is a Chinese company and therefore immediately suspect in some eyes, but their Omada line is pretty reliable. They also make the Deco line for more home-focused solutions. They’ve been in the news a bit lately, more so because people don’t change passwords from what I recall, but I wanted to mention it.



  • The RO system is dependent on the membrane. Theres a level of standardization for membranes and pre-filters. This is an example: https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/axeon-5-stage-ro-system-50-75-gpd Conversely, there’s a lot of branded systems that require special format filters and membranes (https://www.premierh2o.com/ro-pure-plus-voc-system), which can naturally only be sourced from the manufacturer. A good 4-stage system can be sourced for about $200 give or take.

    RO was developed to desalinate water. Therefore, if you use a salt-based ion exchange water softener (the standard water softener) and then run that through an RO, it’ll be a pretty straightforward process. The more pressure you can provide up front (within the specs of the system), the more efficient the system will be. (Actually, it’s the pressure differential that really makes a difference, so if you’re pulling out one cup at a time, it’s less efficient than pulling out a litre). If your water is very hard, there will be more brine produced. There are ways to minimize that waste (effectively by injecting it into the hot water supply), if that’s important to you.

    A distiller will have the same problems any boiler will have.

    I’ve got a softener and a RO. It comes in between 450 and 550ppm and leaves around 30-70ppm. You typically want to see a >90% reduction; less than that and the membrane needs replacing or you may have pressure issues.



  • This is great, because it shows the possibilities. Water source heat pumps make air source look like a toy, and those in turn make conventional heat sources look prehistoric.

    However, it is not uncommon in more seasonal climates for the average solar production to exceed the average energy consumption across the year, while the reality is that summer is characterized by overproduction and winter requires consistent top-ups from the grid. Adding a small wind turbine is a challenge from a charge controller perspective (you can’t just plug into an EG4) but it can really address those short, cloudy days with high consumption.