You might have some polypropylene there. Really strong material! Won’t stick to shit, temperature resistant, chemical resistant, can bend without breaking… never tried it, personally but it’s interesting stuff.

Sounds like TPU? Maybe soft one too.

Yes! Been waiting for this impatiently :D

Anyone on stable?

Me :P I looked through all the settings and found nothing, so unless it’s hidden somewhere I didn’t look, it’s not here yet.

Waaaait a moment: “Fixed an issue with taking multiple screenshots if Game Recording is on”

Game recording? Since when it’s out of beta?

Thanks, I think I get it. There’s a lot of humidity where I live too, so while not at the same scale, the problems are at least relatable. Best of luck with the project, it sounds like a cool but lengthy and complex journey that can really pay off!

Oh! The “brassic” guy! I don’t have much help to offer, but I didn’t know that term, had to look it up and found the tv show :D so thank you.

A tiny bit of potential help: you mention wanting to use desiccant in the boat. I’m obviously not an expert, but it sounds like a bad idea, as the stuff absorbs water… but maybe you mean in small amounts, so that wouldn’t make a difference.

If you have other ways to play a game, consider buying it regardless of the rating for the Steam Deck. Sometimes verified games update in a way that makes them way too hardware intensive, others might actually be playable regardless of what they say and the only real way to find out, is to try. For example, I wanted to try it so I setup Steam VR on the Deck, added ALVR, set it to minimum resolution and fps… I mean, Taskmaster VR worked. I had to make the resolution inside Steam VR all the way down, and it keeps a shaky 60 fps (doesn’t bother me, others could get motion sickness) but it was playable. Obviously it was docked, so 100% just curiously as on the other side of the desk there’s my actual gaming computer, but…

My understanding is that oleds are a weird beast. Since there’s no backlight, each pixel can be considered a small colored light, if you have a fully black screen, then it’s essentially off and not using any power. However, there are instances where the peak brightness is limited to a small portion of the screen, because blasting the entire thing of full brightness white would pass the power supply capacity…

That said, let me stress this: it’s my understanding. Not a hard fact, I might be wrong or just basing things on old information.

I am convinced that kernel AC is… mostly on games that have a fuckton of cosmetics. Let’s see, who’s against Linux specifically? Destiny, even if it was in Stadia and that was Linux. Fortnite. Ubisoft has it on juuuuuust a select few games, everything else they’re happy to see on every platform.

They don’t care about cheaters, they’re protecting the micro transactions.

Had access to cli, restarted HA and quickly disabled the Alexa integration: so far everything is working as intended :)

Similarly unfortunate situation for me, using the backup didn’t really help. But I DO have the Alexa integration, I guess next time I get HA between reboots I’ll disable that.

I think on my system it’s causing reboots. Not fun.

AFAIK Rosetta deals with Intel Mac apps, not Windows. If this handles Windows games like Proton does… pretty big news!

Oh yeah, new tech is cool and potentially useful. My point was that this particular excitement is not too likely to improve anything on the current hardware we have.

The thing with “AI” or better still, ML cores, is that they’re very specialized. Apple hasn’t been slapping ML cores in all of their cpus since the iPhone 8 because they are super powerful, it’s because they can do some things (that the hardware would have no problem doing anyway) by sipping power. You don’t have to think about AI as in the requirements for huge LLM like ChatGPT that require data centers, think about it like a hardware video decoder: This thing could play easily 1080p video! Or, going with raw cpu power rather than hardware decoding, 480p. It’s why you can watch hours of videos on your phone, but try doing anything that hits the cpu and the battery melts.

Edit: my example has been bothering me for days now. I want to clarify to avoid any possible misunderstanding that hardware video decoding has nothing to do with AI, it’s just another very specialized chip.

Uh, I feel like this is better taken with a low level of enthusiasm: reading the article there’s no mention of how it’s supposed to improve battery, it’s mentioned how it’s AI based, and most concerning for us, both the Ally and Go use the Z1/Z1 Extreme… that have a 10 tops npu.

Like, they’re cool and tempting. But not anywhere near the price of a full unit when I have an already perfectly functioning one! If I could say swap the panel on the Deck (with relatively little effort), I would likely consider buying an upgrade kit but that’s not possible. Same thing with the PS5: if I could just buy the new gpu and replace the old one, I probably would. Never mind that it’s an apu so in this instance it’s really replacing the entire guts of the device, that’s a minor detail XD

My record that I’ve never been able to match in Tokyo Jungle was in remote play on the PSP from the PS3. When I got a PS Vita TV I tested remote play, got sidetracked and spent the afternoon playing Destiny. I’ve played a couple of times World of Tanks on the phone with the official app (and a gamepad obviously, I’m not insane lol).

Sony’s very, very good at this. Granted the AMD video encoding is not as good as the Nvidia one annoyingly, but it’s up there as average quality.

Now I will say this… if you ever tried it using WiFi? Yeah, for whatever reason Sony’s WiFi chips are a dumpster fire on home consoles, acceptable on handhelds. That would’ve entirely explained your experience.

Now, if you want actual garbage, look no further than the Xbox: when I got the Series S I tried it wired to my desktop, and it was a laggy, overly compressed mess. Far worse than the time I tried OnLive through a VPN because it was not available in Europe, and that’s an achievement.

I’m thinking it looks like the print gets to a spot where it can get faster, and your hot end can’t keep up with the temperature required by that filament, causing under extrusion. If my guess is correct, it would show on a small test print (same settings) where you get looooong straight lines to allow for speed. And would disappear by slowing down. Since it looks like a relatively expensive filament I suggest you wait for more feedback before trying my test, just in case I got it wrong and my test would waste some filament for nothing.